The short answer: the IW329006 is faked because it is a stainless steel dive watch from a brand with global recognition, a clean dial that prints well, and steady demand on the second-hand market. Nothing about the design is hard to copy from a photograph, so a counterfeiter can sell a convincing object to a buyer who has never handled a genuine example. The criteria worth checking, ranked by how much they reveal, are the movement, the case and bracelet finishing, the dial and hand detail, the bezel and crown action plus water resistance, and last the box, papers and serial history.
Why This Reference Attracts Counterfeiters
Counterfeiters follow cost and demand. A steel sports watch with a closed or simply finished caseback gives them room to hide a generic movement behind spacer rings, and a dive watch case is thick enough that the trick rarely shows on the wrist.
- Steel case and bracelet keep the faker's material cost low compared with gold references.
- Strong brand recognition means a fake sells on the logo alone to a casual buyer.
- The dial is legible and uncluttered, which suits low-cost printing and applied markers.
- Healthy resale values make a below-market asking price look like a bargain instead of a warning.
- High production volume of the genuine watch means parts photos and measurements are easy to find.
None of that makes the reference a bad watch. It makes it a target, and it means the burden of proof sits with the seller.
Why the Movement Decides the Question
Everything visible on the outside can be copied well enough to fool a photo. The movement is where the cost gap appears. A genuine watch carries an IWC calibre with correct finishing, correct engraving depth on the rotor and the beat rate the manufacturer publishes. Fakes usually carry a bought-in clone with cosmetic plates, shallow laser engraving and a beat rate that does not match.
- Ask for a clear movement photograph and a timegrapher printout before money changes hands.
- Compare the rate and amplitude on the printout with the published specification.
- Treat a seller who refuses to open the caseback, or who only supplies stock images, as a closed file.
Best for: any purchase above pocket money, and every purchase where the seller is not an established dealer.
Why Case and Bracelet Finishing Give Fakes Away
Finishing is labor, and labor is what a counterfeit operation trims. Look at the transitions rather than the overall shine. On a genuine watch the brushed surfaces run in one direction, the polished bevels stay crisp, and the caseback engraving has depth and clean edges. On a fake the brushing wanders, the bevels round over, and the engraving looks shallow or sandblasted.
- Check end link fit against the lugs. Gaps and rattle point to loose tolerances.
- Inspect screw heads and spring bars. Soft metal and off-center slots are common on fakes.
- Look at the clasp engraving and micro-adjust holes under a loupe.
Why the Dial and Hands Trip Up Cheap Copies
Dial printing is the cheapest thing to get almost right, which is why almost right is the tell. Genuine print sits sharp under magnification with no ink spread. Lume plots are filled level, not domed or sunken. The date disc sits centered in the window and the font matches the reference. Hands reach the minute track exactly, and the markers at twelve line up with the crown.
Why Bezel, Crown and Water Resistance Matter Most
A dive watch that leaks is a costume. Bezel action should index with a firm click and no back-play, the crown should thread smoothly, and the watch should pass a pressure test before you swim in it. A seller who will not allow a pressure test is telling you something. Even a genuine watch of unknown service history should be tested, and a fake usually fails on the seals alone.
Why Box and Papers Prove Less Than Buyers Think
Boxes are manufactured and paperwork is printed. A full set raises confidence but does not authenticate the watch. Serial numbers should match between the caseback, the paperwork and the seller's description, and a dealer should be willing to put the serial in writing.
- Pros of buying a full set: better resale, easier service history, fewer questions later.
- Cons: a premium price for accessories that can be assembled separately from the watch.
Best for: collectors who plan to sell. Buyers who plan to wear it can accept a watch-only sale at a lower price if the movement and case pass inspection.
If You Already Own a Suspect Watch
- Stop wearing it in water and stop polishing it.
- Photograph the caseback, dial, clasp and movement before contacting anyone.
- Have an independent watchmaker open the caseback and record the movement maker and beat rate.
- Put the finding in writing, then raise it with the seller or your payment provider.
The reference is not the problem. The problem is buying without a movement check, and that check is the one step no counterfeit can survive.